North Sulawesi, Manado - Part 5 : Relishing Bunaken's Marine diversity once more

Manado Dive Travel - 11 to 15 November 2006

Partie Cinq de Six

Jour Quatre : Tuesday, 14 November 2006

Bunaken Marine Diversity - Enjoying A Good Mix of Big and Small


Embracing the wonders of Bunaken....
It was to be our last day of undersea adventures in Manado. We could only do a maximum of 3 dives before fulfilling a minimum of 24 hours before our flight next day.

We had a bit of discussion about where to go and what to see on this last day. The majority(Michelle and Alex) voted against macro so we were off to see pelagics in the deep blue.
I had no violent objection as I thought of watching some big deep sea fishes as well.

We reviewed the sites around Bunaken Marine Park and found some famous sites possible for pelagic encounters with the Napolean Wrasse, Barracudas, Sharks and Jacks. It's hard to decide which sites we wanted to do, so we asked the expert(Noldi) for opnions and off we set out, placing absolute trust in him that we'll get to see what we asked for!

We were again blessed with good and fair weather on the last day out at sea. We were enjoying each and every moment, tanning under the warm rays and riding over the cool waters.

The Hues of the Deep Blue
Dive Site: Tanjung Kopi
Location: Manado Tua
Visibilty: 35 m
Temperature: 27°C
Maximum Depth: 39.7 m

This site features dramatic walls and deep recesses of up to a few hundreds metres. Tanjung Kopi can be translated to mean Coffee Point but the reason for this name remains a mystery. It lies on the north of Manado Tua which is dormant but not totally extinct as volcano activity is still reported. This is the place where deep underwater exploration was carried out to study the Coelacanth, a deep sea living fossil of a prehistoric fish thought to have been extinct long ago but was recently discovered thriving healthily here.

The dive site's main attraction is a sloping underwater plateau that descends from 5 to 30 metres, fringed with a vertical wall that drops off to over 80 metres. You can see the hardened lava flow, remnants of past eruptions of Manado Tua. This is a site for the experienced only as currents can be very strong. An experienced dive guide is essential for diving here, as entry at the correct point is critical. This is the ideal location in Bunaken to see the bigger fish species.

For people who love beautiful views of coral life, this site offers some of the best soft coral gardens at Manado Tua. The colourful corals, abundant reef fishes, big fish actions and the the fantastic visibility makes this site highly recomended. There's also opportunities for macro as shrimps, slugs and worms crawl among the hues of the blues here. One thing to mention in particular about this site is, it is overgrown with hydroids big and small, especially a long feathery purple species which looked really beautiful. I was not careful and accidentally brushed my right wrist against one of such long purple duster. I was ensnared with a horrendous wound that made me cried painfully underwater....

The grandeur of Manado Tua Island itself will leave you fascinated about how the magnificient
underwater topography, outlined by the larva flow, was formed eons ago.

A small school of barracudas swimming in the current above us... the sunrays casted shadows of their unmistakable identity.

Spanish Mackerel (Scomberomorus commerson)

A very impressive, torpedo shaped predator that cruised past me while I was on the plateau's edge. This is a pelagic species that hunts ocassionally along slopes and dropoffs on the outer reefs in deep waters. It has a steel- silver body marked with several wavy dark bars. It usually hunts alone or sometimes in small roving schools raiding the reefs. It is a predator built for speed with pointed head, large round eyes and a great falcate tail.

Loki Whip Goby (Bryaninops loki)

A typically reddish orange species that tend to spend its entire life on the same single host. It is usually found in current prone areas and tidal channels. They live exclusively on Sea Whips and gorgornians. Whip gobies tend to move and hide on the opposite side of their host away from view when obverved. An assistance from a dive buddy would be an added advantage to keep this elusive fish in the photographer's view.

Broadclub Cuttlefish (Sepia latimanus)

A spectacular and beautiful cuttlefish that can grow to a large size. It will readily allow interaction with divers without showing signs of fear. It can display a broad range of "emotions" by changing its textures and colours with speculative intelligence. If alarmed by sudden movements, it will raise its 2 fore tentacles as a sign of warning in its defensive mode. Variations in colours and skin textures are apparently endless.

Partner Shrimp (Periclemenes soror)

This little shrimp live exclusively in association with sea stars. This specimen was found on the underside of a pincushion star(Culcita novaguineae). It is very small and commonly found in small groups on the same host. They are very shy and will dart to hide immediately if disturbed. Their colouration are highly variable and are always dependent on the colour of its sea star host.

Little Sea Hare (Alypsia parvula)

Showing the typical oral tentacles at the front of the head, on either side of the mouth and the smaller rhinophores just above the eyes. At the back you can see the large parapodial flaps which have a black edge. These parapodia enclose the mantle cavity in which the fragile plate-like shell is found. A black ring outlines the hole (foramen) which leads to the cavity in which the shell is found. Probably the smallest species of Aplysia, reaching a maximium length of about 6cm. The 2 specimens above were found on the same hyroids and algae turf and they are 2 different colour variations of the same species. Often, this species spot a mottled brown or green body, but sometimes a more uniform colour. It usually has a dark border to the parapodia, and the large mantle foramen. The tips of tentacles are usually darker than the background colour.

Polycad Flatworm (Pseudoceros paralaticlavus)

Similar to Pseudoceros jebborum, but the latter has a thin, submarginal, black band while in P. paralaticlavus the black colour is dominating. The background colour is velvety black, with 3 large grey bands, one median and two lateral. Bright distinctive yellow edge. They are associated with colonial ascidians. This specimen above is a tiny juvenile of only about 2 cm.

Rendezvous with Ron's Big shots
Ron's point is a sloping sandy dive site that lies on the southern tip of to the west of Bunaken island. The sandy slope is littered with coral rubble and and the numerous boulders overgrown with soft corals. The terrain here gently slopes down to about 25m and drops off to the deep abyss. The dropoff walls featured dramatic gorgonians fans and a facade of multi-coloured corals that contrasted beautifully against the deep blue of the sea. Ron's point is situated at the mouth of the channel between Bunaken and Manado Tua islands, where currents meet and sweep through trecherously. The currents here can be strong and unpredictable and is a site recommended for the experienced.

On descend, we went down along the walls to a depth of 37.5 m and we did a gradual multi-level ascend to the shallower depths. The currents along the walls here were moving fast and we glided effortless along the drift. The currents changed directions serveral times and we did the same as well. There was a couple of times where we had to fight the down drift to maintain our multi-level ascend.

Expect lots of big fish actions here. There were the ocassional schools of fusiliers, snappers, unicornfish and batfish. The larger fishes moved with tremendous speed. I came across Spanish Mackerels, Giant Trevallies, Dog-tooth Tunas, a Giant Barracuda and a couple of Giant Sweetlips, all crusing the blue with their predatory instincts. Nodi saw a Black-tip Reef Shark which none of us were fortunate enough to share that vision. There were also interesting animals to see on the sandy reef - Groupers, Parrotfishes, Wrasses, Nudibranchs, Garden and Moray Eels as well as the Blue-Spotted Ray.

Alex and Michelle floated to the surface after they were dangerously close to deplete their air supply. I continued with Noldi foraging the flat shallows for critters, also at the same time doing my perpetual safety stop. Not much macro on this dive but the big stuffs would be sufficient to pump a bit of adrenalin through your body for an excitement. The downside would be the incapability of my camera to capture all those wide-angles...

Dive Site: Ron's Point
Location: Bunaken Island
Visibilty: 20 m
Temperature: 28°C
Maximum Depth: 37.5 m

Great Barracuda (Sphyraena barracuda)

A solitary Barracuda cruising the deep blue in search of prey. A giant torpedo that is powerfully built as a fearsome predator.

Round Batfish (Platax orbicularis)

All batfish are fairly large, highly compressed, slow moving, with silvery shining body and a very calm demeanor. They sometimes occur in immense schools which are very impressive to behold. They all feed on algae, vegetable matter and variety of small invertebrates. Their juveniles are solitary and often hide among shallow reefs. Juveniles are often unbelievably different from their adult appearance in terms of shape and colour patterns. The species featured above are easily confused with very similar Platax teira and Platax boersii. Platax orbicularis is distinctly marked with two dark bars on the front of the body- one vertically across the eye and the other across the pectoral fin. It has small black flecks on the sides which are absent in other Platax species.

Spotted Garden Eel (Heteroconger hassi)

Garden eels are usually found in large aggregations on sandy or muddy flat bottoms close to the reefs, often in deep waters and in current prone areas. Their common name derives from their swaying in the current in big numbers, with only the head and the first part of their body emerging like many blades of grass from the substrate. They mainly feed on plankton brought by the current and seldom leave their burrows. This species is easily identified by the two sharp black spots on its finely speckled body. As with all garden eels, this elegant species lives in large colonies. They are partly submerged in the soft bottom and rising with the front part of the body to face the current and feed on the incoming drifting zooplankton. Garden eels are some of the most difficult and frustrating subjects to photograph as they are very sensitive to movements, always ready to slide down to hide in their burrows whenever a diver approach or exhale too loudly from a distance.

Blue-spotted Stingray (Taeniura lymna)

A very commonly observed species. The disc is rounded and is yellowish with several electric blue spots and bright yellow sinister-looking eyes. It also has one or two serrated spines midway along the tail length which is connected to a poison gland. It rarely digs under the sand and can be approached by a cautious diver.

Minor Notordoris (Notordoris minor)

A nudibranch of the family Aegiretidae. As with other species of Notodoris, the skin is toughened with tiny spicules, the upper surface has a few irregular pustules, and the small rhinophores are smooth and simple. The branched gills are situated midway along the body, partially hidden by three large lobes. The animal has a yellow background colour, with a pattern of diagonal and transverse black lines arranged in a network over the entire body. The gills and rhinophores are essentially yellow, but in juveniles, and some adults, there can be some black pigmentation. Notodoris minor can grow to 14 cm in length and feeds on calcareous sponges belonging to the family Leucettidae.

Next: Save the Best for the Last..... The Last dive - best Muck ever!
To be Continued...

Similans Trip Report - by Dorothy

Photos Courtesy of Dorothy...
















A Picture Before Our Last Dive At Boon Sung Wreck...

Our Dive Group(from Left): Me, Dorothy, Meilin,
Josephine,Yixiu and our Dive guide Chris(center, squating)

Below is the account of Dorothy's experience at the Similans:

"Hey hey!!

I am BACK from diving the Similan Islands, and it was a fantastic trip....diving-wise. Anyone intending to have a good experience on an LOB should do the White Manta - great service, fantastic crew, reliable dive guides, comfy lodging and space, and really delicious food. We were really blessed to be assigned to this Brit chap called Chris, who spent a lot of time during breaks drawing out entire dive sites before any briefing, with rocks/bommies/reefs etc. in diff colours; and whom also more than once commented he liked diving with our little group...until he started losing us underwater, and vice versa. (*snigger*) Alright, before I ramble further about nothing much, here's my dive report:

1) Anita's Reef
I woke up to light filtering into the cabin and was greeted by a view of sun beginning to rise behind some rocks, clear blue waters you could see through to the bottom with and a zest for some great diving. Indeed, the visibility was about 20m and it felt like I was in an aquarium rather then open water. I was immediately greeted by a large pufferfish hovering on the white sandy bottom on descent, and soon after, began stalking clown trigger, oriental sweetlip, and came by a bevy of brown sweetlip and blue tangs clamouring for breakfast on some corals. Schools of blue trevally, yellow tail barracudas and snappers greeted us along the way, and there were varieties of butterfly fish I'd never met. We saw some blue trevally having mouth washes by cleaner wrasses, and hovered a bit on the sand to spot garden eels (I didn't see any but the others did). The highlight was spotting a Mimic Octopus in the sand. It frolicked away from us to try to camouflage itself next to some rock and coral. I just kneeled in the sand and fired away at my camera, and the amazing thing was, another similar octopus just appeared next to it, before moving off, leaving octo no.1 still struggling to blend with its surroundings. The dive ended at a huge boulder (think it's called Hin Muang Tao) characterised by a spot of bright red coral housing a family of Clark's Anemone Fish.

2) East of Eden
Another reef with great visibility, but as I was feeling a little unwell, I got a little bored and uncomfortable during this dive, despite the once again, numerous schools of fusiliers, butterflyfish and snappers. Emma saved the dive - "Emma" the free gliding giant moray, resident at this site. We spotted here just before ascending, sliding under some table coral.

3) Elephant Head Rock
An attempt to seek out leopard sharks proved null again here, with much declined visibility. The host of butterflyfishes and angelfish here was aplenty, and huge in size as we swam among the rocks. Some spotted a huge barracuda here, which I didn't, but I did encounter a lobster, a dead one. (no fresh sashimi here)

4) Turtle Rock
After a miraculous recovery, signalled by finally being able to eat, we beheld a beautiful sunset as we waited for our night dive. A friendly hawksbill turtle swam by to say hi as we prepared for the brief. This dive, we hovered mostly on the gentle gradient of the bottom, shining our torches into corals and rocks for shrimps, crabs, etc. Another octopus showed up, and lionfish as well. There was quite a lot to spot, and we lost our dive guide for the first time in the darkness. He showed up later on and guided us in the general direction of the boat, before losing us again. Thank God for the blinking flash the instructor hung beneath the boat. We eventually found our way back.

5) Breakfast Bend/ Snapper Alley
Rise and shine and here I was in a dive that took my breath away....literally. It was a really beautiful site with good vis, schools of all kinds of reef fish, and so much to see. Nudibranchs are a rare sight in the Similans, and getting great shots (IMO) of a pretty Chromodoris kunei (or is geminina?) really made my day. We spotted a HUGE barracuda having a mouthwash (as usual I finned fwd to attempt taking photos...much to the "horror" of my buddy), and even with 30bar of air left, I still wanted to stay and observe a red spotted snapper, having breakfast among a swirling school of glass fish (or some kind of small fish). Pretty pretty dive....I was so reluctant to ascend.

6) Christmas Point
Our last site at the Similans and still no leopard shark! This was the last chance. After some odd currents and thermoclines, we nearly lost Chris again, until we heard him clicking frantically for us. There it was, the leopard shark, lying on the sandy bottom behind a rock. We simply kneeled on the sand near it and fired with our cameras, and it didn't budge a bit. I shifted to take closer shots from the front as well...still it didn't move. Only the expansion of it gills and slight opening of the mouth showed signs of life in the 1.5m wonder. The ascent from this site was wrought with more chilly thermoclines and currents. I was pointed to a giant grouper just before making my way upwards. Nothing really mattered...the leopard shark was on the top of our minds, and the first thing we screamed at the people on the boat when we hit zero metres.

7) Koh Bon
A long sunny boat ride brought us to Koh Bon, and I was contemplating taking a nap as the boat docked near the island. Absently, I decided to walk towards the bow of the boat for some wind, and as I got there, the crew suddenly dashed out from their room and gestured to me. I looked and there it was, a manta ray flapping near the surface some metres away. We excitedly shouted "Manta!" and aroused all the napping divers into action. It made it rounds, occassionally breaching and making us cry in wonder. One of the instructors quickly donned fins and snorkel and paddled out in chase.

We had 3 dives planned here. On our first dive, we barely spotted 2 mantas cruising overhead in the first 10min, before totally losing Chris. As our surroundings was neither rock nor reef, the five of us were totally lost, and ascended to our record shortest dive, lasting 20min. Chris came back with report of making it to the reef as planned, and seeing 4 mantas surrounding them. My heart cringed at having missed all that. Dive 2 was a sunset dive, and this time, we were determined to stick close to Chris. The site got darker and darker, but not before we spotted lionfish, another octopus, a very fierce moray and a banded sea krait (we later found to be named "Hector" - another resident). In the last rays of light, I spotted the manta cruising by once again, before being hit by a bout of strong current, sending me and another diver clinging onto the rocks for dear life. We only let go as the rest of the group came drifting by with the current as well. Dive 3 showed us a different side of the same site in daylight. I spotted an octopus and a huge school of yellow snapper before finding myself hanging on to rocks again, waiting for mantas to pass by. They did not disappoint. We spotted 3 flying by and one more overhead. As we made our way along the long ridge, I couldn't help noticing an entire highway of yellow snapper. Fish life was aplenty as well, and I spotted 3 blue puffers swimming together...so cute! Chris spotted a black tip shark, which we all missed. (vis at sites where mantas roam are typically not so good)

8) Boon Sung Wreck
Our final dive was in 3-5m visibility, with so much particles and silt in the site we....(you guessed it)....lost Chris within 15min into the dive. However, all 5 of us stuck together once again, and explored the piece of wreck we found ourselves at. We found a family of Durban hinge-beak shrimps, bumped into a school of white trumpetfish (never seen them in a school before), honeycomb moray, stonefish and many lionfish. The schools of smallfish here was numerous, and the many puffers were all XL sized. Currents were pushing us around, and we held on to a guiding line to ascend. I was almost swept away when I got distracted by a cute purplish jellyfish tumbling about next to me.

The diving was wonderful, and nearly made up for the frustration that came later on, when we found out the dive instructor we booked the trip with hadn't arranged our Phuket accomodation for the night yet. Unwise and risky move on his part, but thankfully, we eventually found rooms for the night and made our way back home safe and sound. The Lord's hand of protection is always upon us, and indeed He created all things for us to enjoy. I've got a new hobby and it's called video editing. Haha! Wish I'd discovered the software in my laptop earlier. Have attached my Manta video for your viewing pleasure.(Also did up my Bali one into a 3min plus show, but it's 28plus mb large so will have to upload somewhere)Photos will be uploaded soon, after I've edited them.=) --



Happy moments, PRAISE GOD.
Difficult moments, SEEK GOD.
Quiet moments, WORSHIP GOD.
Painful moments, TRUST GOD.
Every moment, THANK GOD.

Bubblingly yours,
Dorothy
"
View Dorothy's Similans Trip Photos at her Kodak Gallery
Meilin's Photos can be found on her Flickr account

My photos...erm...are still in the midst of being processed...uploaded a few already and loads more to come... u can view them in myphotoalbum gallery following the link here.

North Sulawesi, Lembeh Strait - Part 4 : Macro Magic of the Muck Heaven

Manado Dive Travel - 11 to 15 November 2006

Partie Quatre de Six

Jour Trois : Monday, 13 November 2006

To the Muck Diving Capital of the World - Lembeh Strait

Introduction to the Fine Art of Muck Diving
As its term suggests, muck diving is all about groveling in muddy environment and generally the sites don't look attractive. It is altogether a different experience from the colours of the reef and deep blue diving. Yet, muck diving is all the rage worldwide today!

Muck diving is about slowing down and taking a closer look at the marine environment and appreciating it in a new way. There are several kinds of muck habitats. Generally, they are sandy and silty bottoms, mangrove swamps, seagrass patches, under jetties and piers and wreck bottoms. Muck diving certainly offers a great variety as each habitat has its own unique terrain, substrate and interesting array of critters and species.

Most creatures residing in the domain of muck sites are skilled masters at camouflage. They are either very small or have fascinating coloured hides to conceal themselves by having similar facades of textures and colours with their background environment. Some have the ability to burrow into sand while others possess venomous spines as defensive mechanism. The most interesting of all are those that can change their body textures and colours at will as they move around their habitat or mimic other creatures to escape predation. All these rare and bizarre-looking marine creatures are all that's driving muck lovers into an addictive craze and getting hooked on diving the muck waters!

Appreciating the art of muck environment requires perfect bouyancy and a keen eye. It is a conducive environment to fine tune your bouyancy skills. With practice and in due time, you'll enjoy and rejoice at your mastery in bouyancy control hovering just above silty bottoms without stirring a speck!

Muck diving is generally done at lower depths where the variety of species can already be found. This means prolonged bottom time for more productive encounters. I am more inclined towards muck diving due to the limitless photographic opportunities at macro. I just love macro more than wide angle as indicated by my preference of muck to deep blue diving. A good mix of both types is great but generally I find muck diving more enjoyable due to the following reasons (from my experience):
1. Muck statistically proved more encounters than deep blue diving;

2. Critters moved much slower and most of them stayed stationary even at close encounters, so there's ample time to appreciate and take the perfect shots of them;

3. Longer bottom time: because you don't exert too much energy chasing big pelagics and fighting currents here. You go slow and shallow, conserving your air and shorten your Residual Nitrogen Time such that the risk of Decompression sickness is comparatively lower and your surface interval will be shorter of course;

4. You can encounter the strangest and rarest of creatures here as well as their uncommon behaviour of mating, laying of eggs, hunting and fighting;

5. Although the muck environment is not as colourful as coral reef diving, the marine critters certainly offers a more colour variations than those dull silver, blue and black pelagics of the deep. Of course, it's nice to feed your excitement once in a while to encounter huge tornadoes of Barracudas and Jacks, schooling Hammerheads, majestic Whalesharks, gracefully flying Mantas and bizarre looking Mola Molas. But be informed that these are the rarest of encounters in the deep blue and unless you know where and when they specificially hang out (e.g Layang Layang for Hammerheads, Sangalaki for Mantas and Bali for Mola Molas), I would not recomend you to waste precious bottom time out in an unknown site searching aimlessly for these elusive pelagics. Chances of encounters based on my experience in blue diving is virtually very low and even if I see them, they are only faint blue figures in a distance that disappear almost as instantly as I spotted them (like my Hammerhead encounter in Sipadan).

Too early to RISE, very eager to SHINE

Below: The Sun already unleashed its rays upon Mt Lokon at 5 am Manado Time!

It was to be another full day of fun for us. Despite retiring on the basis of a tired day the previous night, we were required to wake up as early as 6 am in the morning! Anyway the excitement of diving the muck capital of the world got me jerking out of bed at 5 am already.... Michelle and Alex was still sleeping like dead log, so I went out for a quick puff and snapped a few shots of the Sunrise in Manado Bay. It was not what I'd expected it to be... The Sun was already up and was eagerly discharging its rays upon the lands of North Sulawesi. The magnitude of brightness at 5 am sure looked like 9 am here in Singapore... I wondered how early does the sun rise... maybe 4am?

We had breakfast at 7 am and were off by 7.30 am on a 1.5 hours journey to Bitung, the capital town of Lembeh. The traffic was a pain to endure. The roads were narrow, there were lots of vehicles recklessly whooping in and out of lanes and the town of Manado was already bustling with life as early 8 am. We reached Bitung on scheduled time at about 9 am. The town of Bitung seemed quieter but the infrastracture is better developed, with wider roads, orderly marked lanes, traffic lights and better architectures of buildings. Our transport pulled over at a busy fishing port along Lembeh Strait.

Bitung is a large harbour docked with lots of fishing boats. A large smelly fish factory is situated outside the town. There were lots of unsightly rubbish floating in the waters around the port. On the eastern side of the tip of North-Sulawesi, the Lembeh Strait (Selat Lembeh) runs between the Sulawesi mainland and Lembeh island to the east and is about 16 km long and 2 km wide. The strait is constantly flushed by cold upwellings from the deep with nutrient rich waters feeding the thousands of bizarre creatures inhabiting the sites. There are some interesting white limestone walls and a few smaller islands or rocks (Batu Sandar, Sarena Kecil, Kai-nah) in the middle of the strait and a lava flow visible around Batu Angus. Lembeh island is also an interesting place with some wilderness where the Tarsius monkeys, large monitor lizards, birds and land turtles live.

We boarded our boat and head out for the first chosen divesite of the day.

Left: The busy fishing port of Bitung; Right: The fish factory

The islands and limestone rocks of Batu Sandar, Sarena Kecil, Kai-nah in the middle of Lembeh Strait

Michelle acting cute.... Alex doing a good service...

In Search of the Lengendary Rhinopias
We were brought to this site to find a highly sought after subject by photographers and divers alike: The Rhinopias. Noldi mentioned he had seen this creature lurking in a Sunken drum at this site. The Rhinopias, also known as the Lacy Scorpionfish is a beautifully ugly fish with intricate lacy spotted hues of purple-blue, bright yellow, pink or green. This creature is an ambush predator and seldom move far from its surroundings. They don't swim but rather walk across substrate to get around... They sometimes can be found at a particular spot for months.

Aer Perang has a very nice black volcanic sand beach with gentle slopes. We did a shore entry and descended gradually to find our prized fish. The bottom was generally black volcanic sand/silt littered with rubbish. Not much variety of coral life as expected from this muck divesite. There was a huge patch of coral garden though. It was like an underwater plot of flower bed.

Dive Site: Aer Perang
Location: Lembeh Strait
Visibilty: 5 m
Temperature: 27°C
Maximum Depth: 23.2 m

Initially, there was no special encounters. There were only rubbish and sand everywhere. Only a few trumpetfish and plenty of lionfish. We were admiring the patch of flower bed and sponge patch when we chanced upon an ugly thing.

This guy was lying in wait of passing prey among sponges(above left). It was confident of its disguise and camouflage and stay motionless even with me at close quarters. It was looking at me all the while, spying on each and every movement that I made. I took a few photographs, it did not budge. I decided to give it a gentle nudge and it jumped right out of the sponges high up into the water column(gaving me a fright!) before settling down among the Warrior corals(Goniopora sp.). I never expect that frogfish can literally jump up so high into the water! I merely thought they can only hop along the seabed. Now I know they are called frogfish for a good reason. These fishes do not merely look like sponges, they felt like sponges too! Soft, spongy and irregularly shaped. Their pectoral fins are modified into webbed frog-like feet with tiny claws for hopping and moving around. Those pairs of modified "feet" are often the ones which gave their disguise away.

Commerson's Giant Frogfish (Antennarius commersonii)

Frogfish are also known as Anglerfish. They are exquisitely camouflaged ambush predators. Rather static, not only they perfectly mimic in color and general shape of their chosen perch, they also sport growths, lines, warts and colour patterns which completely disrupt their already lumpish body. This colouration of the Giant Frogfish is highly variable, they changes their body colour and pattern from time to time to match their surroundings. As its name suggests, this species is the largest known worldwide which can grow to a maximum length of 50 cm.

Undescribed Nembrothid (Nembrotha sp.4??)

This tiny individual, believed to be a juvenile was only about 10 mm. It is distinctly recognised as a Nembrothid, of family Polyceridae. The subfamily of Nembrothinae consists of the species of Nembrotha, Tambja and Roboastra. This specimen, which I photographed has had an orange dorsal patch between its rhinophores and gills against a baby blue colouration. It is also marked by thick black longitudinal lines. There has been no exact colour record of the nudibranch featured above. It could be a colour variation of Nembrotha sp.4 as per described in Australian Museum Online's Seaslug Forum. That one being the closest match I could find reference to. Another speculation is that this is a juvenile of the Nembrotha kurbayana as there was some records of subadults still retaining the bluish colouration at the rhinophores shealth and branchial plume pockets. Update me if you can give me an ID to this beautiful jewel of the sea.

Dwarf Sole (Parachirus xenicus)

All Soles and Flounders start life as like any other fishes, swimming upright, with eyes on both sides and patterned symmetrically. As their life cycle progress into adulthood, they undergo a drastic and strange transformation. Their eyes will move to one side of the body and they will lie flat with their both their eyes facing upwards. Soles will lie on their left sides with their eyes on the right sides of their body while flounders are the direct opposites. This is one way to differentiate soles from flounders. The side of the body with eyes are usually patterned with the ability to change colours to blend into their habitats(usually sandy bottoms). The other side of the body(lying flat against the sand) is usually white and pale. The Dwarf Sole pictured above is a small species about 50 mm long.

Yellow Boxfish (Ostracion cubicus)

This Yellow Boxfish is a tiny cute juvenile of about only 2 cm. Notice its black spots are about the size of its eyes. I was chasing this puny guy for a good 5 mins just to photograph it. It was so small that it kept zipping through holes and pipes, hiding among corals and in crevices. A tough little guy to capture on camera.

Ribbon Eels (Rhinomuraena quaesita)

Ribbon Eels start life as males and gradually change sex to females as they mature. Their sex and maturity are indicated by the change in their colouration. Juvenile male eels are jet black with yellow dorsal fin and as they matured into adult males, they transformed into beautiful electric blue with yellow snout and dorsal fin(above right). When a sex change occurs, the electric blue male becomes an all yellow female(above left). The yellow females are less commonly observed as compared to the black juveniles and blue adult males. They can be observed at low depths, usually in mixed sand and rubble areas well lit by sunlight. All 3 colour phases of the Ribbon eels have the same characteristics of eractic gaping mouths continously and twitching their body in a disorganised, spasm-like movement. They are aptly named as their body is thin, long and ribbon-like. Their most distinguishable feature from other members of the moray eels are their elaborate nostril flaps which are enormously expanded, forming a scoop-like structure.

We found the old rusty oil drum but our legendary fish was not found anywhere. We scoured the vicinity carefully for quite a while but just can't find it. It was strange.... Rhinopias hardly move around and they only inch a few metres in weeks or months. They generally stay stationary for a long time even when disturbed. Our speculation was that it was either captured or dead by predation. This fish has become a scarce find in North Sulawesi in recent years.... Once found, it is a prized trophy.... Better luck next time I guessed...

The Magical Wonders and the Electrifying Awe of Muck Macro!
Nudi Retreat is a wonderful site full of colours and surprises! It is a site where you can do a combination of Muck and Reef exploration. Although this is relatively a small site, the encounters are virtually limitless. It is a small protected cove with lots of beautiful soft and hard corals growing below the watermark under the cliff face. Extending out to the strait is the usual nice sandy black volcanic muck.

We started the dive further out of the protected cove and straight into muck diving. Creatures abound boldly in the open sands, confident of their camouflage or flashed vivid bright warning colours of toxicity to discourage would be predators. The cliff at this site extends underwater to a depth of about 25m vertically, giving us an opportunity at a mini wall dive. Seafans, sponges and other soft corals bloomed among the walls, showcasing myriad of amazing creatures, resulting in colours extraordinaire.

Dive Site: Nudi Retreat
Location: Lembeh Strait
Visibilty: 10 m
Temperature: 27°C
Maximum Depth: 25.2 m

Bargibant's Pygmy Seahorse (Hippocampus bargibanti)

The Pygmy Seahorse has a short snout, rounded knob-like coronet and irregular bulbous tubercles on the body. It has a rounded spine above each eye and on each cheek. Two colour morphs are recorded for this species, one is pale greyish-pink with pink or red tubercles, the second is yellow with orange tubercles. Both are found only on gorgonians (sea fans) of the genus Muricella, in depths of 16-40m. The Pygmy Seahorse grows to 2cm in length. It is remarkably well camouflaged. The colour of the Seahorse matches the gorgonian it inhabits, and the body tubercles look very similar to the polyps of the gorgonian. There are claims that the tubercules on the pygmies are actually live coral polyps growing on the skin.

Bargibant's Pygmy Seahorse (Hippocampus bargibanti)

We came across the Bargibant's pygmies on the Muricella gorgornian fans at a depth of about 22m along the vertical walls of this site. This is the common pink colour morph. There were about 2 of them on this seafan of about 1.5cm length and both were not very compliant with photo-taking. At this depth, there was constant current sweeping me and the seafan which makes it even harder to shoot digital stills of them. Muricella gorgornian have numerous closely knitted polyp tubercles on the extensive tight network of branches, giving the pygmies exceptional camouflage even to the keen eyes. This Pygmy Seahorse is a very shy species and will most certainly turn away from view when cameras approach. Imagine my frustration getting all the backsides and unfocussed shots...

Sea Moth (Eurypegasus draconis)

A very cryptic species perfectly camouflaged to match its sandy surroundings. They are usually seen in pairs meandering over the sandy bottom looking for tiny crustaceans and other benthic organisms to feed upon. Their body structures mimics pieces of broken shells and rubble. They looked like a combination of fish, platypus and seahorse(Eurypegasus: Pegasus was the winged horse of Greek mythology). When frightened, they will flare their broad pectoral wing-like fins and meander off very fast, in a synchronised zig-zag fashion changing directions simultaneously.

Warty Frogfish (Antennarius maculatus)

Antennarius maculatus (Warty or Clown frogfish) is a very attractive frogfish with nice colours. The large retractable lure can be recognized easily and this frogfish is often seen luring. It is rather a small frogfish but within its range quite common and often seen by divers. Juveniles are frequently confused with Antennarius commerson and Antennarius pictus. Some juveniles of the Painted Frogfish (Antennarius pictus) spot similar colour morphs and are often confused with this species. Painted Frogfish lacks the distinctive warts that grow on the Antennarius maculatus.

This couple was perching on corals and sponges.... hopping away when I got too close.

Perfect camouflage: A piece of Sponge overgrown with algae, warts and hydroids...

This species of frogfish shows many colours and can slowly change from one colour to another until it matches the colour of the surrounding sponges or corals. Lightly pigmented spots, patches and scabs.

Clown Frogfish (Antennarius maculatus)

This particular white and red colour morph of the Warty Frogfish is also known as the Clown Frogfish. This little guy was sitting out in the open blantantly without any sponge cover where it usually conceals itself. It is bright white or yellow with reddish brown and bright orange triangular patterns. The skin is covered with warts and clearly visible pores which makes it look like a piece of sponge. The lure, attached at the front of its head just above its mouth, looks like a small fish.

Clown Frogfish (Antennarius maculatus)

Like all frogfish, it tends to stay in the same area for some time. It can be spotted in the same location for days. The Clown Frogfish will sometimes sit out in the open (like the one I photographed above) pretending to be a small piece of sponge growth. This specimen was about 10cm.

Juvenile Ribbon Eel (Rhinomuraena quaesita)

This is the juvenile black and yellow Ribbon Eel. All black juveniles are males. Upon attaining adulthood it will change its colour to electric blue and yellow. A sex change occurs when the blue males transforms into the rarely seen all yellow females.

Juvenile Ribbon Eel (Rhinomuraena quaesita)

Like many eels, the ribbon eel is sometimes thought to be angry or aggressive, because its mouth is often agape, appearing ready to strike. In reality, the eel is simply breathing. The ribbon eel buries itself in sand or hides in rocks or reefs, dashing out to feed on small fishes. The ribbon eel is known as one of the most sociable and peaceful of all moray eels, and does not bother humans or easily get irritated.

Demon Stinger (Inimicus sinensis)

Also called the Devil Scorpionfish, this demon can inflict horrendous wounds causing excruciating pain with their venomous spines. Its pectoral fins are modified with free finger-like rays, enabling it to walk across the sandy bottom and to use it to bury itself in the sand. It has a short tail that is held at a cramped angle to the lumpy, spiny body. A cluster of fringed, disarrayed and long dorsal spines rises from its back. When threatened, it will display menacingly, flaring the inside of its beautiful and stunningly coloured pectoral fins as a strong sign of warning. The different species of devilfishes (Inimicus didactylus, filamentosus, caledonicus and sinensis) are differentiated apart from the colour of their pectoral fins.

Strapweed Filefish (Pseudomonacanthus macrurus)

Also known as the Smallspotted Leatherjacket, it is a marbled brown filefish, highly variable in colour. Almost always visible scattered black spots and an obvious white blotch next to the pectoral fins. Short seaweed shaped skin flaps cover the whole body and the dorsal spine.

Banggai Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni)

The Banggai Cardinalfish, also known as the Kaudern's Cardinal, or Longfin Cardinalfish, is beige and silver highlighted by black stripes and white spots on the body with long, elegant fins. As its name suggests, they are native to the Banggai islands in Central Eastern Sulawesi, Indonesia. There have been successful introduction of this unique species in recent years to other locations in the vicinity. They have invaded and are thriving well in Lembeh Strait, north of Banggai islands.

A Clown Anemonefish amidst a school of Banggai Cardinalfish

Banggai Cardinalfish is active during daylight hours, while many of its fellow Apogonidae are nocturnal. All male Cardinalfish species incubate their eggs in their mouths while the females guard their males aggressively. They release their youngs into the planktonic layer when they hatch. But the Banggai Cardinalfish is the only species of its kind to continue housing their fry in the male parents' mouth for another 10 days or so after they hatch. This dedicated parental care means their productivity level is much lower than other species of Cardinalfish. They are usually found in groups of around 2 to 20 individuals, sheltering among structures such as branching corals, sea urchin spines and seagrass stems. Some even associate with sea anemones. They hover just above the tentacles, but are able to make contact without harm, similar to the commensal relationship between a Clown Anemonefish and their Anemone hosts.

Peacock Mantis Shrimp (Odontodactylus scyllarus)

One of the most beautiful and interesting species of its kind, this powerful "smasher" can split a human finger open with a lightning-fast strike of its modified raptorial claws. It is a very active predator often hunting out in the open for crustaceans, molluscs and even fish, easily recognised by its aposematic bright colouration. Often difficult to photograph in the open as it scuffles for hiding in coral rubble or retreat to its typical U-shaped, 2 exits burrow. When cornered (like the one above), it will stand up and watch the photographer, sometimes rolling on its back and showing off its beautiful tail fan. This and other Mantis Shrimps must never be touched or get too close to, as they are quite capable of smashing through a camera lens housing with a force and speed of a .22 caliber bullet!!

Peacock Mantis Shrimp (Odontodactylus scyllarus)

An extraordinary species that looks like a combination of Shrimp and Praying Mantis with beautiful feathery colouration of a Peacock. A ravishing but deadly beauty.

Shireen's Phyllidiopsis (Phyllidiopsis shireenae)

A Nudibranch of the family, Phyllidiidae. They do not have branchial plumes on their dorsal surface. Phyllidiids hide their gills underneath their mantle skirt. Phyllidiopsis shireenae is distinctive, on account of its mid-dorsal crest (i.e., the body is not dorsoventrally flattened as in other phyllidiids). It is white(sometimes very pale pink coloration) with a few black lines, and salmon pink rhinophores. No other Phyllidiid possesses a large dorsal crest and salmon pink rhinophores.

Babai's Phyllidia (Phyllidia babai)

As described by Brunckhorst, 1993....
The 'Phyllidia ocellata colour group' is a particularly complex one having slugs with yellow-orange tubercles and/or dorsum with 'eye patches' surrounded in white and or black with a tubercle (usually yellow) in the middle. While P. ocellata displays some individual variation some other distinct species occur in the colour group. Phyllidia babai belongs to this group. It is distinguishable by its consistently white dorsum with fine yellow margin and narrow tubercles; it has the black 'eye patches' as other species in the group. There are other distinguishing features such as its white foot (dark gray in P. ocellata) and in internal morphology and morphology of penial spines. P. babai is known from the western pacific; it feeds on the yellow sponge, Acanthella stipata. This nudibranch was named in honour of a grand gentleman of Opisthobranch taxonomy and biology in Japan, Kikutaro Baba.

Morose Tambja (Tambja morosa)

This is a large species of Tambja growing to about 70mm long. It is usually black, dark blue or green with bright blue markings. Like all species of Tambja, it feeds on arborescent (plant-like) bryozoan colonies. This elongated species of Tambja are capable of 'swimming' (more of riding on currents) to quickly get mobile in search of food or escape predators. They swim by vigorous lateral movement of the body - simultaneously bending the head and tail to one side, then to the other. Not a very directed way of swimming but a good way to move away from somewhere quickly.

Red-Gilled Nembrotha (Nembrotha rutilans)

A typically coloured Nembrotha rutilans is with creamy-white body, large brown/maroon patches anterior and posterior to the gills, orange-red patch on the tail, purplish blue oral tentacles, long red rhinophores and very large red gills. The characteristic blue line along the edge of the foot appears faint gray in my specimen, however. This species typically displays a dramatic cobra or rattlesnake striking posture. It feeds on the slowest moving of benthic invertebrates, a sessile tunicate.

Loch's Chromodoris (Chromodoris lochi)

This is the blue complex with orange-yellow gills variation of the Chromodoris lochi. This rare colour form are easily confused with C. willani, C. dianae, C. annae and C. elisabethina. To distinguish C. lochi from the other 4 species Chromodorids, study carefully at the colouration and markings of its mantle, branchial plume and its rhinophores. C. lochi have either an all white or speckled blue(this case) mantle and foot. Its rhinophores and gills are within an unbroken black perimeter on the mantle. It also has a black median line which can be discontinous. It either is a blue mantle complex form which is always coupled with all orange-yellow rhinophores and gills, or, it will be an all white mantle form with white or pink rhinophores and gills. Both colour forms of the C. lochi always have a bright white mantle skirting edge.

Loch's Chromodoris (Chromodoris lochi)

This on the other hand is the more typical form of the Loch's Chromodoris. It has a feathery white branchial plume and pinkish rhinophores. The mantle skirt is all white without any orange or yellow marginal band. It feed on sponges.

Anna's Chromodoris (Chromodoris annae)

It has a blue or sometimes bluish white background, with fine black punctate notum. Black line alla around the mantle. It has distinctive brilliant orange rhinophores and gills. An orange band surrounds the mantle edge. This species can be differentiated from the similar looking C. elisabethina by not having a longitudinal black median line. C. annae has black punctation while C. elisabethina has black pitted marks against blue background.

Electric Flame Scallop (Lima scabra)

The Electric Flame Scallop is an extremely beautiful molluscs that has a bright red mantle with long, red and flowing tentacles. The species seems to create electricity which can be seen jolting across its mantle like lightning bolts. These electrical surges are bright enough to be seen by our naked eye. The shell of the Flame Scallops is covered with fine bumps, making it feel like a file. It likes to hide in rock crevices and caves with its shell embeded in the substrate. Capable of shooting strong jets of water out of its mantle while closing its shell to propel away from predators. It is a filter feeder that dines on phytoplanktons. Here is an interesting video that I captured to illustrate this strange electrical phenomenon which left me in awe!

Play it to be electrified!

2 Trumpetfishes cruised near the water surface with beautiful rays of sunburst illuminating the colours of the pristine reefs at Nudi Retreat.

We ended this dive at the small cove of Nudi Retreat, with amazing colours of the reef illuminated by the rays of sunburst shooting through the water surface - an exchanted experience!

The "Beach with a well" is a Site with full of wealth!
Pantai Perigi lies on Lembeh island just close to the huge white limestone formations. The name can be translated to "beach with a well". There's a private beach at this site, but we didn't explore the dry land site to see if there's really a well here. We started the dive on a gentle slope with light grey sand. Towards deeper waters, it's mostly muck with obsuring visibility. There were only ocassional patches of soft corals among the murky bottom. But almost under every rock, log, rubbish and corals, lurked critters of all sorts. There were some hard and soft coral colonnies in the upper area of the dive site.

This site is one of my best muck dive. There were countless bizzare but interesting animals all over this splendid location. I encountered so many animals on my wishlists and they are just so fascinating. I was so engrossed in taking pictures most of my time and lost my buddiess few times but we always managed to find one another everytime.

Top side pictures of Pentai Perigi with me posing next to Nodi...and Michelle

Dive Site: Pantai Perigi
Location: Lembeh Strait
Visibilty: 5 m
Temperature: 27°C
Maximum Depth: 20.7 m

Dwarf Lionfish (Dendrochyrus brachypterus)

As its name implies this species of lionfish is one of the smallest sized with individual growing to a maximum length of 15 cm. They are often found in small aggregations on coastal reefs especially on silty bottoms and among vegetation debris. They show variable colouration and when disturbed, it will readily flare its brightly coloured aposematic fan-like pectoral fins. Like all other Lionfish, this menacing and grumpy looking fish should never be touched by as they are capable of inflicting nasty pain with their venomous spines.

Papuan Scorpionfish (Scorpaenopsis papuensis)

A very cryptic bottom ambush predator. It is almost undistinguishable from the very similar S. oxycephala and S. possi. S. papuensis has forward pointing tentacles above the eyes which are absent in the other 2 similar species. It is usually found in coral and rocky areas to depths over 40 m and also in coastal sand slopes, estuaries and lagoons, often in algae covered rubble zones.

Long-horn Cowfish (Lactoria cornuta)

The cowfish belong to the Boxfish family of Ostraciidae. They are aptly named as they have rigid box-shaped body, made up of semi-fused but well defined hexagonal bony plates. A truly armoured box-like strong casing with holes through which emerge the eyes, the mouth, the gills, the fins and the caudal peduncle. Despite a seemingly lack of streamlined flexibility, they are fast and agile swimmers. This particular species of boxfish is called cowfish because it spot a pair of long sharp horns above the eyes and another shorther pair at the lower rear. It is usually solitary, often observed on sand and seagrass bottoms blowing water on sand to uncover the small benthic prey it feeds on.

Hairy Frogfish (Antennarius striatus)

Small little frogfish that is covered with developed hair-like dermal appendages as its name suggests. It is a peculiar species that can spot different colour variation, from brownish, yellowish, pinkish to whitish. The background blotches and stripes are always present though. Being an Anglerfish, it has a large, boomerang-shaped lure that looks like a fat worm. It is commonly observed on sandy or silty bottoms with rotting vegetation and sponges where it lies patiently camouflaged for an unsuspecting meal.

Cockatoo Flounder (Samaris cristatus)

Undoubtly, this flounder swam and hugged closely flat to the sandy seabed. Perfectly camouflaged by using its various shades of brown mottled on its ocular side. It will suddenly spread its greatly elongated white dorsal fin rays in front of its head when threatened. Watch the video above that demonstrate this behaviour.

Flying Gurnard (Dactyloptena orientalis)

Watch this clip and see how the Flying Gurnard takes flight. It opened up its colourfully vibrant wing-like pectoral fins to glide across the sandy bed. It is also capable of lightning fast short burst of speed to get away from danger.

Porcelain Crab (Neopetrolisthes maculatus)

I have described a very similar and almost identical species of the Porcelain crab previously. It also share the same characteristics and live on the same types of commensalistic anemone hosts. The N. maculatus can be distinguished from the preceding N. oshimai by its smaller and more numerous red spots on a white background.

Crinoid Squat Lobster (Allogalathea elegans)

A tick-like critter species of variable vibrant colours, always matching to its crinoid hosts. It has a flattened oval body with a long pointed rostum. Alone or more often in pairs living exclusively and having commensalistic relationship with its featherstar hosts. They are often found underneath the crinoids and can be observed by gently tickling (with a dive rod) the hosts' underside to make them open up. Never attempt to handle the crinoids with hands as the featherstars' arms are extremely fragile and they will break and stick to your skin.

Red-striped Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmatella prima)

Clearly identified by its bright yellow legs, the body is also yellowish, striped in bright red. This species does not seem to mind when closely approached and will often stay out in the open in true "cleaner" fashion. It is supremely confident in its bold colouration to ward off predators and advertises its cleaner services to would-be passing customers.

Commensal Shrimp (Periclemenes magnificus)

This particular species of cleaner commensal shrimp was described in an earlier post. This is a much clearer and close-up macro shot of it. The best part is it was impregnated with eggs visible through its transparent abdomen.

Blue Dragon (Pteraeolidia ianthina)

A solar powered nudibranch of variable colour, its cerata stores undigested and uncharged stinging nematocysts capable of painful stings if touched. It also culture zooxanthellae from its diet and stores them in its cerata. In the nudibranch's body, the zooxanthellae get protection and in turn provides the nudibranch with nutrients from photosynthesis. Young animals are white as they have yet to develop their crop of zooxanthellae. Adults often can go without feeding for sometime, possibly living off the nutrients provided by the zooxanthallae.

Mt Dua Saudara - an inactive volcano at the heart of Bitung

We finished the last dive at about 1530 hrs North Sulawesi time and began our hour long journey back to Barracuda resort. We were so tired that we slept throughout the journey. When we reached our resort, it was still too early for dinner so we showered and headed out to the Mega Mall in Manado town. Our poor driver can't really communicate in English yet he had to follow us around while we did our shopping. I think we bored him alot as we were taking our time forever to window shop....

We returned to the resort for dinner and coincidently, my OW instructor from Big Bubble Center, Singapore, arrived at the Barracuda with his students. What a timely meet in a foreign paradisa! It was bedtime after some catch up session with Stanley and we looked forward to more deep blue diving the next day...

To be continued...